View Day 2 Hike Pendeen to St Ives in a larger map
A relaxing Full English Breakfast in an old English pub more than made up for the rain during the night. English rain is usually lighter than some of the storms we get in the US, but it can go on for days. In this case the rain stopped early and I was able to dry my gear quickly and get on with the day.
I left my tent, fleece and inflatable mattress at the pub for a later drive-by pickup and grabbed the 507 Western Greyhound bus from Pendeen for a mile or so up to Rosmergy where the B3306 swings within 100 yards of the coastal path, where I headed for Bosigran Cliffs.
The 4.7 miles from Bosigran to Zennor are superlative. They are the remotest, the hilliest, the rockiest, the narrowest, and the quietest part of the North Cornwall costal path. I didn’t see a single person until I got to Zennor. It’s a shame really because this really is a very pretty part of the coastline, but I think the lack of access forces hikers to focus on the next 6 miles, from Zennor to St ives. Zennor offers B&B, a pub, parking and a bus service to St Ives and so is a popular starting or ending point for this segment towards St Ives.
The ups and downs continue, and rounding Carn Naun Point gives us the first views of the distant coastline of North Cornwall, past St Agnes and Newquay and most of the way to Padstow. Closer in you catch a glimpse of St Ives Head, otherwise known as the Island, which of course it is not, just beyond St Ives, the lighthouse at Godrevy Navax Point. All along this section the views continue to be spectacular, and the path is wider although muddy in places.I found the last mile into St Ives a bit confusing. This close to the town there are dozens of interwoven tracks and no signs for the coast path. From the coast path as you traverse the muddy path past the final chine veer to the left and go down the hill. At the bottom of the hill bear right onto the long uphill path and you will be on track.
From here I continued past the beach and round the head which contains a small chapel on the top and on the far side a coast guard station, which is elegantly concealed by the hill. OK, I’m Dumb, So who is the chapel on St Ives Island (which isn’t an island) dedicated to? Of course it’s dedicated to St Nicholas. Beyond the Island I continued South to Carbis Bay and then backtracked to St Ives to find the St Ives Backpackers The Backpackers was quite full with a school group, but I got a room to myself which was a nice treat. It is also centrally located; opposite a moderate Indian restaurant Rainpoot Tandoori which does a classic Anglo-Indian meal, close to a Coop for restocking provisions and opposite a taxi rank.
Distance hiked today 14 miles
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