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Trimming down the Burden
When I talk about trimming my burden I mean that more literally than you might expect:
Tent, my latest tent (well its my sons tent, but I borrow it freely) was a bargain from Ross our local fashion liquidator, it cost $10. Gone are the days when you had to pay more to get a smaller tent. This tent is CHEAP, there nothing to it, it’s missing all the bells and whistles. The tent is just 6 feet by 4 feet, I’m a few hairs over 6 feet, but I can sleep in it diagonally. It has two carbon rods in an “X” which stretch it into shape, so it really doesn’t need tent pegs. So in preparation for my trip, I pitch the tent in my living room and look to see what I don’t need. OK the carbon rods I need those, but they come in a separate bag. Throw away the bag. Inside the tent, an instruction label, I didn’t find the instructions until after I had put the tent up. Snip snip gone! Tent pegs in a neat little bag, history. Little pouch that hangs from the ceiling to store your bits in, you guessed in, there on the scrap pile. So there it is, I took an ultra cheap tent and threw 10% of it away. What’s left weighs about 3 pounds.
First aid kit, nice, comes in a handy Ziploc plastic bag, wrapped inside an orange nylon bag that says First Aid. I know what it is; I throw away the nylon bag.
Flashlight, actually I have 3 lights, a headband with a variety of bright LEDs, a red flashing rear bicycle LED lamp stripped down to the minimum, a small single AAA LED flashlight, it’s as big as your little finger. The headband is for hands free night hiking, the modified red bicycle lamp fits on the back of the headband for road hiking, and also as an emergency locator, and the third is handy to have in the tent at night.
I also have an old 2 megapixel camera, which will take 400 photos before these new high tech batteries run down, still leaving room for an additional 200 more pictures on the 0.5Gb card
Figure out the MINIMUM set of batteries to cover any single event, wrap them all together in a hair-band, and dispense with all other battery packaging
Emergency raincoat, good to have, it usually comes in a plastic bag with a cardboard insert. What do you do with the bag and the insert? Yes you’re getting the picture, it’s now on the pile. Actually, if you have anything whatsoever in your pack made of cardboard you are probably overpacking
A handy to tool to have while packing is a kitchen scale. You can see how much you are winning as your scrap pile grows, and you can do quick comparisons like which is lightest, my 1 titanium spork, or 1 plastic fork plus 1 plastic spoon. Hmmm, now there’s food for thought.
Tent, my latest tent (well its my sons tent, but I borrow it freely) was a bargain from Ross our local fashion liquidator, it cost $10. Gone are the days when you had to pay more to get a smaller tent. This tent is CHEAP, there nothing to it, it’s missing all the bells and whistles. The tent is just 6 feet by 4 feet, I’m a few hairs over 6 feet, but I can sleep in it diagonally. It has two carbon rods in an “X” which stretch it into shape, so it really doesn’t need tent pegs. So in preparation for my trip, I pitch the tent in my living room and look to see what I don’t need. OK the carbon rods I need those, but they come in a separate bag. Throw away the bag. Inside the tent, an instruction label, I didn’t find the instructions until after I had put the tent up. Snip snip gone! Tent pegs in a neat little bag, history. Little pouch that hangs from the ceiling to store your bits in, you guessed in, there on the scrap pile. So there it is, I took an ultra cheap tent and threw 10% of it away. What’s left weighs about 3 pounds.
First aid kit, nice, comes in a handy Ziploc plastic bag, wrapped inside an orange nylon bag that says First Aid. I know what it is; I throw away the nylon bag.
Flashlight, actually I have 3 lights, a headband with a variety of bright LEDs, a red flashing rear bicycle LED lamp stripped down to the minimum, a small single AAA LED flashlight, it’s as big as your little finger. The headband is for hands free night hiking, the modified red bicycle lamp fits on the back of the headband for road hiking, and also as an emergency locator, and the third is handy to have in the tent at night.
I also have an old 2 megapixel camera, which will take 400 photos before these new high tech batteries run down, still leaving room for an additional 200 more pictures on the 0.5Gb card
Figure out the MINIMUM set of batteries to cover any single event, wrap them all together in a hair-band, and dispense with all other battery packaging
Emergency raincoat, good to have, it usually comes in a plastic bag with a cardboard insert. What do you do with the bag and the insert? Yes you’re getting the picture, it’s now on the pile. Actually, if you have anything whatsoever in your pack made of cardboard you are probably overpacking
A handy to tool to have while packing is a kitchen scale. You can see how much you are winning as your scrap pile grows, and you can do quick comparisons like which is lightest, my 1 titanium spork, or 1 plastic fork plus 1 plastic spoon. Hmmm, now there’s food for thought.
Its your burden
Everyone has something to say about packing, but I have to say I got to where I am today the hard way. Thirty something years ago I was an aspiring hitch hiker. I was heading to Europe to spend 3 months on the road without a car.
So I did a trial run; I hitchhiked from my home in Sussex to Edinburgh, Glasgow and Loch Long and back. It was a 7 day trip, and I was staying in Youth Hostels, so no tent, no sleeping bag, no cooking equipment. I would need all of those in Europe, but not for this trip.
So 7 days packing:
• 7 Shirts
• 7 pairs underpants
• 7 Pairs of socks
• 2 warm sweaters
• 4 pairs of trousers
• Bath towel
• Hand towel
• New tube of toothpaste
• New bottle of shampoo
• ½ pound bar of soap
• Etc.
You get the picture, 7 days with a 45 pound pack. Well it was a trial run and I learned that I carried a lot of stuff I didn’t need. The good news was that I already had everything I needed for my Europe trip, and more.
This time I packed for 3 months. I had a “Boy scout” 2 person tent, it was the lightest I could afford back then, a well used coffin shaped down bag, 3 pots, aluminum Knife fork and spoon, Camping gaz stove with a spare cylinder. And less clothing for 3 months than I previously packed for 1 week. I was down to 40 pounds.
Well long story short, I actually carried that burden for 5 months, through Amsterdam, Berlin (the wall was still up then), Czechoslovakia, Italy, Spain, Oktoberfest, and when I got home I was still carrying every pound, although I had lost a few pounds of body fat.
One year later, 1978, I walked the Pennine way, 272 miles, 16 days, 6 pound bag. Yes that’s not a typo, six pounds.
I can’t tell you what you need and what you don’t need, it’s your choice and your burden, but in the next couple of weeks I will give you my version of packing light.
Happy Hiking
Ratdog
So I did a trial run; I hitchhiked from my home in Sussex to Edinburgh, Glasgow and Loch Long and back. It was a 7 day trip, and I was staying in Youth Hostels, so no tent, no sleeping bag, no cooking equipment. I would need all of those in Europe, but not for this trip.
So 7 days packing:
• 7 Shirts
• 7 pairs underpants
• 7 Pairs of socks
• 2 warm sweaters
• 4 pairs of trousers
• Bath towel
• Hand towel
• New tube of toothpaste
• New bottle of shampoo
• ½ pound bar of soap
• Etc.
You get the picture, 7 days with a 45 pound pack. Well it was a trial run and I learned that I carried a lot of stuff I didn’t need. The good news was that I already had everything I needed for my Europe trip, and more.
This time I packed for 3 months. I had a “Boy scout” 2 person tent, it was the lightest I could afford back then, a well used coffin shaped down bag, 3 pots, aluminum Knife fork and spoon, Camping gaz stove with a spare cylinder. And less clothing for 3 months than I previously packed for 1 week. I was down to 40 pounds.
Well long story short, I actually carried that burden for 5 months, through Amsterdam, Berlin (the wall was still up then), Czechoslovakia, Italy, Spain, Oktoberfest, and when I got home I was still carrying every pound, although I had lost a few pounds of body fat.
One year later, 1978, I walked the Pennine way, 272 miles, 16 days, 6 pound bag. Yes that’s not a typo, six pounds.
I can’t tell you what you need and what you don’t need, it’s your choice and your burden, but in the next couple of weeks I will give you my version of packing light.
Happy Hiking
Ratdog
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Pins and needles
Yellow fever shot in one arm, Hep "A" and "B" in the other, Malaria tabs and Typhoid medications, mix it all together.....
Well it wasnt too bad, just a pain in the wallet.
Well it wasnt too bad, just a pain in the wallet.
The Inca Trail
Well today is the first step in hiking the Inca trail :) We go to get our Yellow fever shots and Malaria prescriptions
OUCH!!
OUCH!!
Todays Blog (I need your help)
The Southwest Coast path from Lands-End to Poole Dorset is pretty well defined, and the Southdowns way from Winchester to Easbourne is well defined too, and some of it is along the coast, but I need to find a path between the two!
How do I get from Poole to Winchester?
Is there a path from Poole to Christchurch?
Is there a path through the new forest from Poole or Christchurch to Winchester?
Is there a path through the new forest from Christchurch to the Lymington/Freshwater Isle of Wight ferry?
I have walked round the Isle of wight so I know that bit is good
Is there a path from the Fishbourne/Portmouth ferry to the South Downs way? and if so where is the best place to join it?
• 12-16 miles per day.
• Places of interest.
• Places to stay. (Hostels, B&Bs, Camp sites, legal places to camp out)
• Places to find provisions. Grocers, Shops, Pubs, Café’s
• Recommended coffee shops
• Historical interests (Roman ruins, Bronze Age forts, Stone Age circles, etc.)
Pick a mile, pick a day, It’s your Blog Too
How do I get from Poole to Winchester?
Is there a path from Poole to Christchurch?
Is there a path through the new forest from Poole or Christchurch to Winchester?
Is there a path through the new forest from Christchurch to the Lymington/Freshwater Isle of Wight ferry?
I have walked round the Isle of wight so I know that bit is good
Is there a path from the Fishbourne/Portmouth ferry to the South Downs way? and if so where is the best place to join it?
• 12-16 miles per day.
• Places of interest.
• Places to stay. (Hostels, B&Bs, Camp sites, legal places to camp out)
• Places to find provisions. Grocers, Shops, Pubs, Café’s
• Recommended coffee shops
• Historical interests (Roman ruins, Bronze Age forts, Stone Age circles, etc.)
Pick a mile, pick a day, It’s your Blog Too
Walking the Entire Coast of Britain
Just to make that clear, my definition of Britain is the mainland and Islands that comprise the two countries England and Scotland, together with the Principality of Wales.
That is a long way, about 6000 miles, and will take most of 2 years. About 2/3 if the English coast is publically accessible, of the rest, large portions are permissive paths, which means you can walk them, but restrictions and closures may apply, Other parts are private, or owned by the government. Scotland has less access than England
That means that portions can’t be walked. So when I say circumnavigating I am leaving myself some flexibility, seriously I plan to walk 80% of the way round along the coast, and the remainder using detours.
For example, I consider the Southern coast of the Isle of Wight a viable alternative to hiking the impassable Southampton and Portsmouth docklands. The West Sussex coast is largely built up and has many short inaccessible sections, but Sussex also has the South Downs Way from Winchester to Eastbourne, and I consider that a valid alternative, especially since some of it is along the coast, and much of it has views of the coast.
I plan to make “Best use” of the coast, exploring waterways, islands, steam engines, cable cars. So if you want a strict walk the coast, this is not it, I don’t believe it is even possible, but 80% coast and 20% inland is the goal.
So that’s my part, the walking, your part, with your team of bloggers is to find me a route. Help me find ways past the blocks, find me interesting sidetracks, recommend places to visit, and places to skip (with alternatives). And yes, it is fine for you to discuss it amoungst yourselvs, after all this is a blog.
In the meantime, explore my Blog which describes some the British paths I have already explored.
That is a long way, about 6000 miles, and will take most of 2 years. About 2/3 if the English coast is publically accessible, of the rest, large portions are permissive paths, which means you can walk them, but restrictions and closures may apply, Other parts are private, or owned by the government. Scotland has less access than England
That means that portions can’t be walked. So when I say circumnavigating I am leaving myself some flexibility, seriously I plan to walk 80% of the way round along the coast, and the remainder using detours.
For example, I consider the Southern coast of the Isle of Wight a viable alternative to hiking the impassable Southampton and Portsmouth docklands. The West Sussex coast is largely built up and has many short inaccessible sections, but Sussex also has the South Downs Way from Winchester to Eastbourne, and I consider that a valid alternative, especially since some of it is along the coast, and much of it has views of the coast.
I plan to make “Best use” of the coast, exploring waterways, islands, steam engines, cable cars. So if you want a strict walk the coast, this is not it, I don’t believe it is even possible, but 80% coast and 20% inland is the goal.
So that’s my part, the walking, your part, with your team of bloggers is to find me a route. Help me find ways past the blocks, find me interesting sidetracks, recommend places to visit, and places to skip (with alternatives). And yes, it is fine for you to discuss it amoungst yourselvs, after all this is a blog.
In the meantime, explore my Blog which describes some the British paths I have already explored.
Cornwall Hike – 9 Days, 121 miles
The North Cornish coastal path is incredible, well spaced accommodation and clear paths and few walkers. Every third night a real town, what more does a hiker need
View North Cornwall 9 Day Hike in a larger map
View North Cornwall 9 Day Hike in a larger map
Getting to the start (Day 0) Washington DC to Cornwall
View Getting to the start (Day 0) Washington to Lands En0 in a larger map
Friday Afternoon I left my office in Washington DC a little early, rode the Metrobus to the Airport, and soon made myself as comfortable as possible in back quarters of a United Airlines jet. Breezing through Heathrow customs early on Saturday morning with my 17 pounds of luggage was easy and I strolled to the bus stop to await my National Express chariot to convey me to Cornwall.
One bus, one seat, 3 different drivers and 8 hours later I was the last remaining passenger as the bus rolled down the A30 on the final leg to Penzance. Respectfully, I asked the driver if he could drop me at the bus stop at the Tesco’s 1 mile short of our posted destination. Instead he took me right up to the Tesco parking lot and dropped me at the crossing.
Tesco’s not only provides groceries, it also has a freephone to the local taxi service. My shopping list was short: Water, pork pie for supper, Sandwich for tomorrow dinner, Flake, Mars bar (Don’t you love the British Candy!) and a bottle of Chianti to wash it down. The Taxi arrived quickly and I was soon on my way to my starting point: Porthgwarra.
I know it was going to be tight, I missed sunset by 7 minutes, but I still had 20 minutes of dusk to find a spot and pitch my tent.
Perfect! The southernmost tip of the Porthgwarra cliffs, 30 feet from the edge, there was a small well drained flat spot. I pitched the tent, made up my bed in the dwindling light and opened the wine. Taking into account loosing 5 hours as I crossed timezones, I had travel from my desk in downtown Washington DC to the very end of the land in just 22 hours.
Distance hiked today 0.2 Miles (unless you count the hike from the airplane to immigration at Heathrow)
Well, that went exactly as planned, so far so good, but that was when things started to go downhill (metaphorically, not physically I’m glad to say)
The weather forecast had indicated the temperatures at night would drop just below 50, and that would be accompanied by some rain on the second night, these were the only nights that I would be camping, so my bed comprised a fleece blanket and a small inflatable airbed. Well the first night was very clear and the temperature dropped and dropped as the night went on. The heavy winds whipping up over the cliff edge and the temperature plummeted. Bit by bit during the night I put on every piece of clothing I possessed and finally around 2AM I was forced to break out my Adventure Medical Kits bivvy, a 3 ounce aluminum and polyolefin body bag.
Whew, as soon as I got in the bag I immediately felt the warmth. I slept like a log until the Sun came up at around 6AM
I woke up to traces of frost on the ground, so I’m guessing it got down to the 30’s – But Ooh that windchill!
Rounding the tip (Day 1) Porthgwarra and Lands End to Pendeen, via the Crowns
View Day 1 Pothgrawa to Pendeen in a larger map
Why Porthgwarra for the start, well lots of reasons, prominently: it’s not actually the commercial center of lands end, I could camp there with no hassle and I can be past with Land End by Breakfast time.
I got up at 6AM, let’s not think about Jetlag, and discovered to my great pleasure that I was already dressed for the day! Over dressed if anything. I broke camp and hit the trail. By 8:30 or 9:00 I had covered the 3.7 miles to Lands End, holding my breath as I passed the small cluster of buildings that passes for a petting zoo, and was first in line for a Coffee and a Cornish Pasty. I shed half my clothes before I got to Lands end, and once there changed into shorts and a Tee as the warmth of the day kicked in. The bathrooms (OK Toilets!) were closed at that early hour, and I was not unobserved doing a quick change.
Hey, you know, the Lands End Coffee shop does a decent Cornish pasty, one of the better ones I found on my trail. Although, having lived in the USA for the past 30 years, I will refrain from discussing their coffee; I did however get a second cup.
I thought there was a pub at the end, but it’s a tea shop, well times change (or my memory does) I walked on just over a mile to Sennen Cove, with its fishing harbour, and as the time was approaching noon I popped into the “Old Success Inn” for a traditional beverage, well two actually, and walked along the beach.
The next six miles took me past Aire Point, Cape Cornwall and on to Botallack where I saw what I think is one of the biggest highlights of today walk, The Crowns. The Crowns, as far as I can tell is the collective name for half a dozen or so abandoned tin mines, One out on a narrow ledge, the others around the rim of the cliff. What I find amazing, and hard to imagine on a beautiful sunny day like today, is the hostility of Living your life in this environment, a mine shaft only feet from the sea, accessible only from a long ledge halfway down the cliff, with the full force of North Atlantic Gales.
From the Crowns, the path continues over to Pendeen which has a magnificently restored steam “Beam” engine at the Levant mine.
My path for today continued through the mine slag piles and then turned abruptly right, away from the coast and into the village of Pendeen, wherein lies the North Inn, a small B&B with a large campsite.
Traditional English Pub Food, Campsite, Full English Breakfast, hot showers, what more can you ever need? Oh Yes, beer… It’s got that too.
Distance hiked today 15.1 Miles
The Path Less Travelled (Day 2) Bosigran Cliff to Carbis bay via Zennor Head and Is Ives
View Day 2 Hike Pendeen to St Ives in a larger map
A relaxing Full English Breakfast in an old English pub more than made up for the rain during the night. English rain is usually lighter than some of the storms we get in the US, but it can go on for days. In this case the rain stopped early and I was able to dry my gear quickly and get on with the day.
I left my tent, fleece and inflatable mattress at the pub for a later drive-by pickup and grabbed the 507 Western Greyhound bus from Pendeen for a mile or so up to Rosmergy where the B3306 swings within 100 yards of the coastal path, where I headed for Bosigran Cliffs.
The 4.7 miles from Bosigran to Zennor are superlative. They are the remotest, the hilliest, the rockiest, the narrowest, and the quietest part of the North Cornwall costal path. I didn’t see a single person until I got to Zennor. It’s a shame really because this really is a very pretty part of the coastline, but I think the lack of access forces hikers to focus on the next 6 miles, from Zennor to St ives. Zennor offers B&B, a pub, parking and a bus service to St Ives and so is a popular starting or ending point for this segment towards St Ives.
The ups and downs continue, and rounding Carn Naun Point gives us the first views of the distant coastline of North Cornwall, past St Agnes and Newquay and most of the way to Padstow. Closer in you catch a glimpse of St Ives Head, otherwise known as the Island, which of course it is not, just beyond St Ives, the lighthouse at Godrevy Navax Point. All along this section the views continue to be spectacular, and the path is wider although muddy in places.I found the last mile into St Ives a bit confusing. This close to the town there are dozens of interwoven tracks and no signs for the coast path. From the coast path as you traverse the muddy path past the final chine veer to the left and go down the hill. At the bottom of the hill bear right onto the long uphill path and you will be on track.
From here I continued past the beach and round the head which contains a small chapel on the top and on the far side a coast guard station, which is elegantly concealed by the hill. OK, I’m Dumb, So who is the chapel on St Ives Island (which isn’t an island) dedicated to? Of course it’s dedicated to St Nicholas. Beyond the Island I continued South to Carbis Bay and then backtracked to St Ives to find the St Ives Backpackers The Backpackers was quite full with a school group, but I got a room to myself which was a nice treat. It is also centrally located; opposite a moderate Indian restaurant Rainpoot Tandoori which does a classic Anglo-Indian meal, close to a Coop for restocking provisions and opposite a taxi rank.
Distance hiked today 14 miles
An Easy Stroll (Day 3) Hayle Townes to Portreath via Gwithian Bridge, Godrevy Navax Point and Basset's Cove
View Day 3 from Hayle Towans to Portreath in a larger map
A real storm came in during the night and the morning was wet, windy and dark. It was 10AM by the time I was ready to leave, so I left Backpackers and walked 50 yards to the taxi rank.
The coast is long and I only have a limited time in the UK, and some places are simply not worth the time investment required to walk them. So with apologies to those who live in Lelant, I believe the mud flats known as Hayle Estuary, can be viewed quite adequately as you drive through them on the B3301 causeway (This road doubles as the official coastal path). As the crow files, Carbis Bay to the Towens is 1 mile, by costal path its 6.4 miles, and by taxi across the causeway through the mud flats it’s about 20 minutes.
The taxi was one of those minivans, like a Mums Taxi, so the driver (who must have thought me crazy) suggested I get ready in the back where there was room to stand, in a stoopy sort of way. Hat, Gloves, my ever faithful The North Front hooded coat, my backpack, and all wrapped up inside a $1 disposable rain jacket. I exited the van backwards, feeling like Neil Armstrong as he stepped backwards down the ladder onto the moon: One small step for man….. Ok so I look like an alien, but none-one else is ever likely to be out there on a day like today and see me anyway!
The driver had dropped in one of the many empty parking lots (Car Parks) next to Hayle Towans beach, so following my mantra, “Sea on the left, sea on the left….” I proceeded without looking at my map along the beach and through the dunes to Gwithian Bridge.
By the time I got to the bridge the rain had subsided to a light drizzle and once up on the cliff it was nothing more than a mist. The visibility rose to where I could make out the shadowy shape of Hayle Towans 3 miles behind me, I took out my camera and snapped a picture looking back, and then I saw it! Lighting struck the beach exactly where I had been walking just 30 minutes ago. Kind of gives you the willies. Didn’t catch it in the photo
The path past the lighthouse at Navax is level and actually very well maintained so it was an easy walk and 
just beyond that I was pleasantly surprised to see about 20 seals in the next cove. The 5 miles from Navex lighthouse to Portreath follows the flat path along the cliff. A well maintained straight path runs between two wind braking hedges, with excellent disabled access from each of the parking lots. 
There are periodic views where the hedge has been cleared which are spectacular, and just one chine towards the end of the route. After the chine the path reverts to the norm, but remains relatively flat until it drops down into Protreath.
Portreath has a small grocery store and the Youth Hostel is two miles inland, So I grabbed a few provisions before leaving the town.
The Youth Hostel only had three guests, a couple and me, so again I had a room to myself. I did take the opportunity to borrow some additional covers from the neighboring beds as the heat had been off for some time prior to my arrival. The YHA web site has good directions from the coastal path to this location. Check them in advance because there are no signs on the circuitous 2 mile path. The signs were apparently removed to deter local youths for tormenting the owners.
Distance hiked today 11.5 miles
High Seas in the Storms Aftermath (Day 4 )Portreath to Perranporth via St Agnes
View Day 4 Portreath to Perranporth in a larger mapThere were patches of blue in the sky as I retraced my steps back from the Portreath Youth Hostel to the coastal path, the wind was up and the clouds were racing.
Today coast path starts with some serious ups and downs as you pass by an old airfield, before dropping down into Porthowan. Porthowan has a fine coffee shop on the beach which was busy even out of season. I joined a small group sitting in a bay window and we passed the time talking about the weather which is what the British do.Trekking towards St Agnes, this well trodden area has a spider’s web of paths,
but the one true path is clearly signposted (photo) and continues past the multiple abandoned tin mines at Chapel Porth including one on the path itself. 
Past this tin mine the path thins out a bit to a single trial and needs no signage (sea on the left…)The winds continued to build up and the waves got bigger and bigger. Here at the coast the swell was about 30 feet, and the waves were crashing over 100 feet into the air. As I round St Agnes Head I can see the tonight’s Goal,
the Youth Hostel sitting prominently at the top of the hill above Perranporth with waves crashing on the cliffs below.For the final mile, the path runs along the side of the hill made of loose scree with a slope going up 30 degrees to my right, and down 30 degrees towards a cliff on my left. With wind speeds of 50MPH my progress was both slow and malicious.
Perranporth YHA is small and well managed. There were only 4 guests since it was out of season but great fun to be there.
Distance hiked today 14.2 miles
Changing Scenery - Changing Weather(Day 5) Perranporth to Newquay via Ligger Point and Holywell Bay
View Day 5 Perranporth to Newquay in a larger mapThe coast between Perranporth and Newquay, the first 2 miles (as the crow flies) is a straight as an arrow walk along the beach. The second 2 miles (ATCF) is an 8 mile hike with pocket beaches nestled between promontories.
You can hike the official path along the clifftop, or hike a full two miles up the beach, and scramble up a steep ramp at the far end to get up to the path, but be warned, if you are only there for a short stroll and you go just a quarter mile down the beach and the tide comes in, then you are going the long way home.
This day started as good as any, with a few blue patches in the sky. But a daunting grayness growing in the West. I came down from the hostel and into the town and stood on the beach, in fact I started to stroll a few steps up the beach.
There with the sun on my back I saw the most gorgeous full double rainbow. The beach was blocked by the outgoing tide, I turned back.The Beach has a café with a large awning, so I sat with a cup of coffee and watched the storm pass by.
The tide was going out and the path to the full beach was flirting with the tips of the waves as I finished my coffee. The rain was moderate, but had backed off from the downpour 10 minutes earlier. My $1 disposable rain jacket was re-designated as my reusable rain-jacket and I slipped it over my gear once again in preparation to leave. As I set forth once again on the sand I saw ahead of me a group of about 10 other hikers. Looking at them made me feel like a novice. They had two hiking poles apiece, their heavy duty rubberized rainwear was crisp and new and their brightly colored packs were bulging with every possible amenity a hiker could desire. My poor pack, sans tent and sleeping gear, weighing in at a mere 11 pounds looked sad and saggy, and my raincoat dowdy. Also their guide clearly knew the exact second the tide would recede to reveal the path and boldly led them through just as the final wave fell back
By the time I got to the path it was 30 feet wide and the hikers were spread out half a mile ahead of me
Two miles on, the group was gathering together in preparation for an organized accent to the path 30 feet above, so with a nod of the head and a “Mornin’” I passed them by and scrambled up. They must have mistaken me for their leader because they all immediately began to follow. At the top I turned left and continued the long assent towards the heads at Ligger point, where I was able to stow my rain jacket,
and on to Holywell with its eclectic collection of radio antennas. From there I went down into Holywell bay where I had a choice, either go down to the beach and loose all my altitude, or follow the path straight ahead onto a sand dune, so I did the latter, I ran down the last part of the hill to get some momentum to run up the soft dune on the other side. Then I realized that I was not done, ahead of me I saw the same challenge again, down and up, down and up. The dunes seemed endless. Finally I got to the last one only to find that I had to go all the way down to sea level and walk up some wood steps at the end.
To anyone else I would suggest: walk along the beach!
The next 5 miles were a true pleasure to walk; The journey did start with a sudden three minute hail storm with 3/8 inch hailstones, but then brilliant sunshine.
Two massive promontories each jut out a mile into the sea with a small deep beach between them. Rounding the second land mass brings you to Crantock beach and the long walk past Pentire, which you see on top of a cliff on the other side of the fast river.The coast path offers 3 legitimate ways to cross this river:
• ½ mile inland is the seasonal ferryboat
• 1 mile inland is the low tide bridge at Pentire
• 3 miles inland is the A3075 road bridge
By now the tide was well out, so while the ferry was not an option, thankfully the low tide bridge was open. The official path continues round the coast but skips the headland at Newquay. This headland offers a great view in both directions and is well worth the extra ½ mile to go out there. 
Passing the old fishing port in Newquay, I arrived at the St Christopher’s Hostel in Newquay, my destination for today.Newquay is a lively little town offering surfing schools and a wide variety of evening entertainment. The New Maharajah on Cliff Road was recommended by a local I randomly met in the street and I pass that recommendation on. I went to bed at 9:00.
Distance Hiked today 13.6 miles.
Big Surf, Beautiful Sunset (Day 6) Newquay to Treyarnon via Trevelgue, Watergate bay, and Porth Mear
View Day 6 Newquay to Treyamon in a larger map The big winds of the previous days were pushing the morning waves up to 20 feet high as they rounded Newquays headland, and St Christophers breakfast room offers a panoramic view of the bay.
Only one brave surfer, actually the resident surf instructor, was prepared to go in, and from the bay window we all saw an impressive display of his skills.Today’s walk began by retracing some of last evenings stroll through the man part of the town of Newquay picking up a splendid looking Cornish Pasty from a back street bakery that I passed, and on to the beach at Porth. At Porth, ignoring the Coastal path’s shortcut, I went out to the tip of Trevelgue Head, a former Bronze Age settlement. Continuing on, the heavy winds had boiled the sea into a stiff foam, and lumps the size of soccer balls (Footballs) were blasting overhead as I walked the low cliffs.
As the sun rose higher, the winds and the surf dropped and at Porth an organized group of a dozen hikers joined the trail. Thankfully they appeared less burdened than yesterday’s group, none-the less they soon vanished over my shoulder since today I had to make good time after my relaxed start.
Wonderful views afore and behind as the marker at Newquay head grew smaller and Trevose Head lighthouse grew larger. I stopped at Treburrick Head to eat my well deserved pasty but ended up being bitterly disappointed and I fed most of it to the gulls from the cliff top Onwards to the youth hostel at Treyarnon, and a little beyond to Constatine Bay which has a small grocery store.
Treyarnon is a great little hostel with a wonderful view towards the setting sun. Despite the time of year the hostel was almost full, and a great time was had by allDistance Hiked today 15.2 miles.
A memorable day (Day 7) Rock to Port Issac via Polzeath, the Rumps and Port Quin.
View Day 7 Treyamon to Port Issac in a larger mapI got up early, skipped breakfast and started the day back tracking last night’s trip to Constantine Bay where I caught the first bus to Padstow. This was not because I want to miss this 10 mile section from Treyarnon to Padstow, I didn’t, but because I had limited time and needed to get to Port Issac tonight. From the Padstow Bus terminus I walked up the dock to the passenger ferry from Padstow to Rock.
I was the only passanger at that early hour as I took the short trip over to Rock. Once in Rock I looked for a good spot to get some breakfast.Well we all make mistakes; everything is on the Padstow side of the river, Rock is little more than a boat-slip and a hand full of bungalows. From the boat-slip, the path to the Right took me into the “heart” of Rock. After 10 minutes I turned tail walked back past the boat-slip and began the true focus of today’s walk.
The path begins along the sand following any one of a multitude of trails through the low sea grass and then continues for a mile or so over some low cliffs into Daymer Bay. The second mile brings you to Polzeath. Now Polzeath it turns out has a decent upstairs outdoor restaurant, it has a great view of the beach, and not only serves a full English, but they have real coffee which comes in a cafetiere.
Two pots later I was ready to move on.
Pentire head first provides wonderful views back to Trevose Head lighthouse as well as Padstow Harbour, and then rounding the head brings you to the Rumps.
Now it is sad to say, but the official coastal path takes a short cut here and simply bypasses the rumps, but by all means, drop your pack for a while here and explore the rumps, it’s a ¾ mile excursion and well worth the effort.
From the rumps the path is plain sailing towards Port Quin with its interesting folly at the port entrance.Now perhaps I was starting to get tired at this point, but it seems to me that the path from Port Quin to Port Issac is made much harder than it needs to be.
I can’t blame the land owner for wanting to grab every available inch of land, while still complying with the requirement to provide a coastal path, but this section of the path, which exists on a thin tread of land between a wooden fence and the cliff top, follows every nook and cranny, up and down and up and down encasing every accessible blade of grass with no consideration for the contour. Granted there are plenty of well constructed steps to help you on your journey, but enough is enough. A couple of stys and a bit of level ground would help out here.Finally rounding the last head into Port Issac tonight’s destination came into view.
Let me take you aside for a minute to explain….
Port Issac had been a hole in my detailed plan, I could not identify a place to stay or a potential campground. I was going to meet my soulmate of 30 years in Tintagal on day 8 when out of the blue she found a place in a small town that she had travelled to the previous year. It was a preserved building rented out weekly, Saturday thru Saturday, by the national trust. If you are following my dates here that is day 6 through day 13. That place was the Birdcage in Port Issac.
I got to the door at 5PM and I could smell the home cooking…..
Distance Hiked today 14.2 miles.
Days 8 and 9, from Port Issac to Tintagel and Tintagel to Boscastle actually took place on days 12 and 10 respectively, but for the sake of this journal and their respective locations, I shall continue.
The Land of King Authur (Day 8) Port Issac to Tintagel viaTregardock and Trebarwith
View Day 8 Port Issac to Tintagel in a larger mapTogether we continued towards Tintagel.
The path to Tregardock continued to follow the edge of the cliff, but without the claustrophobic fencing and continuous staircases of the previous segment, and by the time we got to Trebarwith we were ready for a coffee. 
As breakfast time rolled over into opening time the orders changed and we were soon ready to continue the path up to the Tintagel youth Hostel. Although we didn’t stay there tonight, this hostel is perched on the slate cliff top, and next to the church.Spend some time inside the church, looking at the stain glass and exploring the old graves in the graveyard.
From the church we followed the cliff top to the old castle at the top of the hill. The Castle is on top of the hill next to Tintagel Head and while newer than the old monastery on Tintagel head, it has it’s own tale to tell. There is a fee to go on to Tintagel Head, the reputed birthplace of King Arthur and I must say I have never been on to it, but if you go down to the beach below you can actually walk through a cave underneath and come out the other side (tide permitting). I have heard this referred to as Merlin’s cave.
If you have ever been into Tintagel Head, blog me back at let me know what it is like.
Continuing on round the Camelot Castel brings you back into Tintagel with its old post office and numerous pubs
The main street through Tintagel is Fore Street, but at the western end where it abruptly turns north and changes its name to Atlantic Road is a small bakery. This place unequivocally makes the very best Cornish pasties in all of Cornwall. Lamb and Mint is my favorite, but they even make a veggie one. I think some of the pubs get there pasties from there (but do ask first) All in all, it’s hard to go too far wrong in this remarkable town.
Distance Hiked today 10.5 miles.
Boscastle revisited (Day 9) Tintagel to Boscastle via Trevalga
View Day 9 Tintagel to Boscastle in a larger mapThe first time I hiked from Tintagel to Boscastle was in 2002. This short hike is memorable and can easily be made into a circuit by catching the southbound Western Greyhound 594 bus from outside the Cobweb Inn in Boscastle which will ride you back to Tintagel in about 10 minutes.
From Tintagel, head West down Castle street, and at the footpath veer left and up to the old castle with overlooks Tintagel Head, Backtrack down the slope and take the switchback down, ending up on the beach were you can visit the cave.
Back up and to the left follow the clifftop (sea on the left) and continue past the Camelot Hotel and Barras Nose, whence a short hike will take you on to Bossiney beach. A short switchback takes you to the beach with a great little waterfall can first be seen halfway down. On the beach if the tide is out explore the caves and if the tide is a long way out consider walking along the beach a ¼ mile to Bossiney Haven where a small path returns you to the coastal path. Otherwise, return the way you came and continue on the clifftop.
Explore the short path down the stream at Trevalga and then continue along the cliff top to the coast guard station. From there it’s a short hike down into Boscastle Harbour. Repairs from the 2004 flood are now complete and the Youth hostel, which still looks the same from the front, has been extended backwards and tastefully modernized.
Distance Hiked today 6 miles.
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